LitMinds Blog and Interviews

LitMinds Editor Note:  Gretchen Evans (a.k.a. "mom" to two of our founding members) chronicled her recent adventure through the streets of Paris with her friend, Sara Montillier.  Over a series of three days, Gretchen, visited no less than 7 english-language bookstores (who knew there were so many!) We greatly appreciate the detailed notes and numerous photos she took -- thanks mom!

A great place to begin a walking tour of small independent bookstores in Paris is in the Marais (4th) at The Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore, 22, rue Saint Paul on a narrow charming street of boutiques & galleries.  Young and energetic Penelope Fletcher Le Masson, a Canadian from B.C., founded the shop 5 years ago and was joined shortly thereafter by American Abigail Altman from the East Coast.  This clean, happy shop is stocked with all new books, classics and contemporary lit, many French-interest selections, Paris history, guidebooks, gastronomy, and children’s books (including "Paris for Kids" and bi-lingual books to help the kiddies learn French). This store also hosts scheduled readings and book signings listed on the store's website.  (Metro St. Paul, hours M-Sat 10-7, Sun 2-6)

Co-owners of the Red Wheelbarrow

From here, it is an easy stroll toward the Seine to Ile St. Louis for sightseeing or to pick up an ice cream or sorbet at Berthillon, 31 rue St-Louis-en-I’lle.  From Ile St. Louis cross Pont St. Louis (where a Dixieland jazz band might be playing) to Ile de la Cite past Notre Dame Cathedral and across to the Left Bank and historic Shakespeare & Co., 37, rue de la Bucherie (5th) Metro Maubert-Mutualite. This famous writers’ refuge was founded in 1951 by George Whitman who still at 91 hangs out at his table in the second floor meeting room. New and used books are inside and outside the rustic premises with a great view of Notre Dame across the river. A bit of trivia: this is the sister store of City Lights books, a lightning rod for Beat poets in the 1950s. (hours are daily noon to midnight) 

 

Shoppers browse the book bins out in front of Shakespeare & Co. 

 

Gretchen a.k.a. "Mom" with Shakespeare & Co. owner George Whitman (age 91)

A few short blocks away and deeper into the Latin Quarter, you will find the Abbey Bookshop, 29, rue de la Parcheminerie (5th).  A Canadian flag hangs outside this small shop located in a Medieval vault.  A friendly and helpful owner, Canadian Brian Spence from Toronto started this shop in 1989; he by the way has his Masters of Philosophy from Columbia University.  This is a great find if your looking for a Canadian newspaper.  And also a bonus, Brian offers free coffee while you browse a good collection of new and used books from U.K. and North America.  (Metro St. Michel or Cluny La Sorbonne, hours M-Sat 10-7) 

 

The Canadian flag and books stacks mark the entrance to the Abbey Bookshop

Moving on to two used bookstores within a block of each other in the university district and with interrelated history, San Francisco Book Company, 17, rue Monsieur le Prince (6th).  SF Book Co. is owned by Jim Carroll, formerly owner of Carroll’s Books in North Beach (SF). (Metro Odeon, hours M-Sat 11am-9pm, Sunday 2pm-7:30pm).  Just down the street, recently opened Berkeley Books of Paris, 8, rue Casimir Delavigne owned by Phil Wood, co-founder of the San Francisco Book Company, is co-managed by two former SFBC employees, Phyllis Cohen and Richard Toney. Unless you are homesick for Northern California and used American paperbacks, I wouldn’t spend too many precious Paris minutes at these small used bookstores.  (hours M-Sat 11am-9pm, most Sundays 2-8pm)

 

 

Inside the San Franciso Book Co. which carries mostly used books 

On to one of my favorite independent bookstores in Paris, the Village Voice Bookshop, 6, rue Princesse (6th), is owned and was founded by Odile Hellier in 1981, a well traveled and inspiring woman (see store history and Odile on website).  Here you can pick up freebies, issues of FUSAC (English-speaking resources & contacts) and The Paris Times (with insights into the life of Paris) and Paris Walks brochures.  This shop offers weekly readings and book signings by well known Anglo writers and contains two floors of the latest English language fiction and nonfiction books.  (Metro Mabillon, hours Mon 2-7:30pm, Tu-Sat 10-7:30pm, Sun 1-6pm). There is a welcoming Coffee Parisien next door and Bar a Soupes & Quenelles across the street, good for refueling.

 

The Village Voice, a clean, bright bookshop 

Tea and Tattered Pages, an English Second-Hand Bookstore & Tea Room, 24 rue Mayet (6th), is a bit more off the beaten path depending upon your homebase in Paris.  Owned by an elderly lady originally from South America who lived for a time in the U.S., she bought the store from the original owner who was from central California.  The highlight is the store cat, Ming Luong, the “courageous dragon.” The tearoom is tiny and  decorated in “early thrift shop”.  Not necessarily worth the extra effort to visit unless you happen to be staying around the block!   (Metro Duroc/Falguiere, hours M-Sat 11-7, Sun 12-6)

 
Ming Luong, the “courageous dragon” at Tea & Tattered Pages

 

Other good bookstores to visit if you haven't yet found what you we're hunting for:

• Brentano’s, 74, ave. de L’Opera (2nd), Metro OperaGalignani, 224, rue de Rivoli (1st), Metro Tuileries

• W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli (1st), Metro Concorde

• Librairie des Jardins, at the Louvre, a small garden bookshop with unique gifts to the left of the Tuileries Gardens entrance, off the Place de la Concorde (1st), Metro Concorde

Bonne chance!  And, good reading!